The world stops at Pushkar

 

 

A flower (pushp) that fell out of the hand (kar) of a god begot this quaint little town in Rajasthan. With all of its 400 temples and 52 bathing ghats, Pushkar is a wellspring of consecrated legends. A quiet town of around 20,000 at other times, it swells to a mammoth two lakh during the world renowned Pushkar Camel Fair, this year between November 14 and 27. The annual eight-day extravaganza attracts visitors, including pilgrims, tourists and simply-curious souls, more than willing to get lost in the narrow lanes and alleys of Pushkar. So much so that the prospect of beholding the fair, when in full bloom, seemed too good an offer to pass by even though it was going to be at the cost of giving a cousin’s wedding the miss. After all, this was going to be an opportunity to witness an event that catapults India on to the world stage each year, year after year. And like many first timers I was curious to find out why.

Packing my bag with all that I imagined necessary in the desert, I found myself on the next cab to Ajmer. Pushkar, as I was told had been booked down to the last room available, and even in the cheapest of accommodations, prices had more than tripled! That, my friends, is Pushkar for you. Exhausted after the overnight journey, but not ready to miss out on the action, I decided to immediately leave for Pushkar, a good 14 kms further up. As we (two colleagues and I) approached the land that is supposed to be home to the only Brahma temple in India, the road leading to it through the Aravalis, the mystery of the holy city and the excitement of the things to come seemed to get greater as we got closer.

On reaching Pushkar, and finding the mela ground near empty, spare a kabaddi match that was being played in one corner of the large field, my excitement was starting to give way to anxiety. Even as I wondered if I was at the right place, we were told that this indeed was the venue for the largest cattle fair in the whole of Asia and perhaps the world. Relieved, we moved to where a cow milking competition was underway. The winner was an Indian bred that had produced 42 litres in a single day! “What started off as an informal meeting place, where people gathered to display their cattle and discuss problems over the years, took shape of an annual fair in 1961”, said Dr. Ram Prakash Naik, Jt. Director, Animal Husbandry Department, Ajmer. But, if you thought the fair only dealt with all things cattle, it’s not so. On either side of the road outside the mela maidan could be seen smaller grounds with stalls exhibiting lesser known brands of tractors and rural transport vehicles, replete with sales promotions. Banks, cell phone promotion vans, stalls of insurance companies could all be seen sharing space. Besides, on display were socially relevant messages too, one of them carelessly – and funnily – titled ‘AIDS Exhibition’, educating rural folk about the disease. Then there were the usual joyrides and games promising frolic for children of all ages. The famous camel race and the matka (earthern pot) race in which women run with a pot on their head is particularly appreciated by foreigners. If you ever wondered why so many westerners take fancy to Pushkar, the answer is as simple as, “We’ve never seen anything like this before,” as chorused Melissa and John claiming a great time at the fair. “We saved for a trip to India for the last 25 years and finally we made it”, continued Martha, another tourist. Rajasthan is a fount of music and dance and folklore, and the Pushkar Fair leaves little doubt about that. ‘Desert symphony’, the music and dance performance on the evening of November 23 saw dancers from across the state of Rajasthan perform to the crowds amidst feverish applause and mirth. The Thar Desert comes alive when the morchang and shehnai sound to the lilts of dama dam mast kalandar and nimbura nimbura while expert dancers shimmy in rhythm, all combining to work up a spell hard to escape!

At a fair that gets footfalls of over a lakh on a given day, one would expect the shop owners to make a killing, but that’s hardly the case. Most stall owners selling traditional handicrafts, metalwork etc come from Jaipur and are not as enthused as the visitors. “Visitors don’t come to shop at the Pushkar fair,” laments D A Vashisht, a shop owner. “In fact, this is slack time for us as people are more interested in the cattle fair,” he adds. Then again, in a supposedly ‘lean season’, about Rs 7.5 crores worth of business was recorded at the mela! The closing ceremony on the final day of the fair included a spectacular show by the Indian Air Force. Eleven paratroopers jumped from helicopters and landed in parachutes. The most thrilling moments however are known each year at the tug of war that pits the muscle of foreign tourists against local sinews.

The first round of the contest saw local women beating their foreign counterparts in what could be termed a one-sided contest. In the men’s round though, the foreigners had their revenge! But the best was yet to come… The finals between the winners of the men’s and the women’s rounds had everyone at the edge of their seats! In a gruelling test of raw power (what’s a ‘weaker sex’?!) the rope was tested to its limits as the local women put up a big and brave fight against the mucho macho men from foreign lands, but had to be content with a well-deserved standing ovation for a consolation prize.

Sadly, in spite of the riot of colours and the frenzy of activity the fair promises to be, it’s easier to spot a foreign face than that of an urban Indian. Pushkar is hardly ever on a city-slick Indian’s radar, unless of course, it’s for religious purposes. It is indeed unfortunate and ironic that one of India’s biggest international draws hardly finds takers amongst the national horde of globe-trotters. Agreed Pushkar has its target audience, but like I found out, you’re bound to find many more cultural horizons than just the Kartick Purnimas! As Alex, the 18-year old from London put it – “You don’t know it in words, you have got to experience it yourself!” It’s a “fair” deal

Sonepur Mela

One of the biggest livestock mela in Asia, the Sonepur Mela of Bihar has animals from guinea pigs to camels adorned to participate in the cattle trade. Once the venue for elephant trade too, Sonepur Mela now sets up medical camps for treatment of the jumbos following a ban on the same. Held during November, Sonepur is to be visited for exhibitions, folk shows and performances by renowned artists. Do not miss the Sonepur Mela theatre which draws the largest crowds. Paying respects at the Hariharnath temple and a holy dip at the confluence of the rivers Ganga and Gandak will be nearly enlightening in the land of the Buddha. Jaisalmer Desert Festival

The Desert Festival of Jaisalmer is apt showcase for the rich culture of Rajasthan. Exuberating with energy, the locals in colourful attires swaying and whirling to the tunes of folk music, the camel polo and camel dances are unusual sights to capture. Adding to it, the puppeteers, snake charmers, acrobats and a Mr. Desert contest in action against the magical Jaisalmer Fort amidst vast spreads of sand dunes, make Jaisalmer the most preferred destination in February.

The Hornbill Festival

Nagaland is also called the mini land of festivals. In case you were not impressed, trying paying the state a visit during the Horn Bill festival that engages all 16 tribes of the state, and you’d have known the state in all its finery! Celebrated from December 1 – 5 in Kohima, this festival displays a cultural extravaganza through tribal dances, game shows, religious ceremonies and craftsmanship of Naga artisans. Admire the array of culture and traditions and the peaceful co-existence of the tribes through ages.