ON THE BANKS OF SALVATION

 

 

The tolling of the bells; the distant call of the conch shells; frequent offerings to the sacred fire with the chanting of shlokas; Sadhus in saffron dancing in an ecstatic trance, a frenzied whirl of locks, tridents and double-drums; lakhs of worshippers rub shoulders and feet, in the hope of shedding sins and sense; light skinned seekers seeking peace under dark skies; naked Naga Sadhus robed in tradition and pride; an atmosphere heavy with the aroma of flowers, fresh and dying – a magical yet delicate union of three holy rivers, an eager multitude and their soon to be shed sins and the promise of moksha that hangs in the air.

Carol from France is left gawking at this breathtaking sight. A student of Ph.D. in Physics, Carol considers this to be nothing short of a miracle. She encompasses her whole experience with Ardh Kumbh in Allahabad in two words, “Startling! Unbelievable!!”. This indeed is a magical world. Where general principles of science hold no ground. Where theories of physics are reduced to whims, twisted and bent compared to faith, steadfast and straight. This world belongs to beliefs and miracles: a world where every ‘stone’ is a god and where every Sadhu is the Guardian of Karma.

Such cradles of Moksha and Mukti are, in fact, deep rooted in a fairly non-altruistic legend. It is believed that during Sagar Manthan (churning of the ocean) between the gods and the demons, four drops of amrita (elixir) fell in different places, namely, Prayag (Allahabad), Ujjain, Haridwar and Nashik. Expectantly, these places have evolved to be of immense religious significance for Hindus. Planetary movements are closely tracked to determine the dates and occurrences of the Maha Kumbhs. It is widely believed that if one takes a dip in the holy rivers during the Kumbh, not only will he shed the burden of all his sinful deeds, he will also better his reincarnation in the next birth. Prayag is of greater importance than the rest because it is here that the holiest rivers of the Hindus amalgamate into one. This year Allahabad is host to the Ardh Kumbh and Makar Sankranti (15 Jan), Mauni Amavasya (19 Jan) and Basant Panchami (23 Jan) will be the most important dates as taking a dip in the holy rivers on these days is considered to be immeasurably auspicious. This has historically been called the Shahi Snan (Royal Dip), which means that on these days Nagas are the first to parade to the rivers, embellishing their tridents and drums, chanting prayers and dancing in a trance. Bathing in the holy waters, for most, is like a festival one looks forward to, and the insignificantly obvious, like the water being mucky and polluted, is but an unseen drop in the river(s) of dreams.

In a party this big, perhaps the biggest in the world, politicians aren’t far behind, shaking a finger or two at the soaring levels of pollution and dropping levels of the Ganga. Some Holy men too have condemned taking a dip in the holy river. In fact, a possibility of a terrorist attack has also not been ruled out. However, the tidal wave of faith washes over every tiny irritating detail, and all that matters is that sea of humanity immersed in a ‘river from heaven’. Shanker Lal, who is a small time trader from Varanasi, said, “Ganga is like a mother to us all and no one condemns ones own mother. It’s true that it has become massively polluted. Therefore, it’s upon us to make it the way it’s supposed to be...pure. And as far as acts of terrorism are concerned, we are here to be close to God, so he will take care of us.” In spite of recording an all-time high level of water contamination, a whopping 25 million devotees have dipped in Prayag (Sangam). The administration of the Mela is estimating a heady number of another 25-45 million people to bathe in the Ganga by the end of the Mela.

If one were to look in any given direction standing at the Sangam (river confluence), it would appear to be the proverbial ocean of humanity. People from all corners of India and all walks of life are at the Mela. From a Gujarati tent to a Bengali gathering, you will witness it all here. And if words in English fall upon your ears then one can safely presume that he is not too far from the tents of South Indians. This awe inspiring sight is a testimony to only one thing -that unity is the only force that can bind our nation into one. Mahanirvani Akhada’s Naga Sadhu Digambar Roshanpuri calls this a unique facet of Hinduism. He states that Kumbh brings together people from diverse cultures and overlooks discrimination based on caste and creed in a potpourri of harmony. Indeed, this place is witness to a stunning display of national bonding when the rich and the poor, Brahmins and Dalits are all seen taking a dip in the holy waters. Bihar’s Darbhanga district’s Ram Keval states that mother Ganga does not differentiate between its devotees. Followers have a lot of trust in Ganga water as well. People here are almost always seen walking around with a soiled bag in one hand and a can of Ganga water in the other. They believe that it is this very water that is their medium to attain nirvana and after death will prove to be the stepping stone to heaven. It is also widely believed that to drink the Holy water of the Ganga while on the death bed will also take one straight to Heaven in afterlife.

Some say that the true face of India is its villages, which is mirrored here. People who visit Kumbh are more from rural neighbourhoods than from the urban jungle. To tell you the truth, this is pretty much their Mela. They can chew on a jumble of Sattu and chick-peas and sleep on a cold sand bank through the night without a moment’s thought. Ramswarup Tiwari declares, “There has to be a supernatural power that protects them from the cold.”

The bottomless love and respect of a son towards his parents was also to be seen at this Ardh Kumbh; the sorts made immortal by Shravan Kumar. Thousands of young men visit the Mela with their aging parents to fulfil their wishes and help cleanse them of sins. The sight of Arvind from Bihar with his mother in a straw basket balanced on his head and his father being propped up by the waist was truly touching.

Ardh Kumbh Nagar, which is sprawled over 7,000 acres, is full to the brim. But despite all the rising crescendo, one cannot help but notice a certain peace that has transpired, one which cannot be deciphered by mere words. According to Avdhoot Yoganand, “this is an experience that cannot be narrated.” If you are at the Kumbh in person and experience this supernatural peace, then you will find yourself being overcome by it, earthly desires disappear and all apprehension is led away. Yogananda calls this very feeling ‘Moksha’. THEY SAY TRUTH IS NAKED

Ash all over his body, and matted hair for tresses, the naked figure seemed to belong to another world altogether. Surrounded by a halo of people, his very sight drew us into an intriguing rapture. Even while he invited us to “have a seat,” he looked far from flattered when a man, appearing out of the blue, sought the baba’s blessings. Hurling a string of profanities, as he filled in with hashish from his chillum (pipe), he had the man scampering to safety and me, cowering for my own. But just then, he gently asked whatever it was that I required of him!

He was Naga Sadhu Digambar Ram Dev Giri. Nagas from the akhaadas are extreme hardliners and Lord Shiva’s devotees who pray in cremation grounds. He also stated that they, at times, came across ghosts and apparitions there. Therefore, they smoked hashish to be able to concentrate on their prayers. Then he told your correspondent that the life of a Naga is perilous. They can never marry. That is why they are ‘dismembered’ when being inducted into this way of life. They shed clothes to reflect their ultimate sacrifice. FOREIGNERS IN INDIA..

They make their way to this Holy Land in pursuit of inner-peace. They were at this Kumbh too, in scores with Rudraaksh around their necks and sandalwood paste on their foreheads. Karen and Ricky from Australia had ‘discovered the very reason for their existence’. Patrick and Mona from France took a dip in the holy river and sat on the bank and sang bhajans. Your correspondent met Joona akhada’s Baba Rampuri. But he was no ordinary sadhu. Instead he was an American national who had left home far behind 37 long years ago when he had come to India looking for Moksha.

At first sight, Fantuji appears like any other dreadlocked Indian baba. However, he is a Latin-American who has been in India since 1971. He also has been to Kumbh a breathtaking seven times. Being a composer and a musician by profession, Fantuji has released many an album, compiling his own composition of bhajans. Ask him about his religion and he promptly explains that humanity is his religion and its service is his Karma. He proclaims that India is his underlying spirit and no one can separate him from it. Almost anyone who makes his way to the Kumbh agrees to have a part of India in him.