A festival in flux

 

 

Famous Poet Zaverchand Meghani, described this land (Chota tehsil of Surendranagar) as ‘Kankuvarni Panchal Bhoomi’ (land of Panchal with colour of Kumkum). And the annual festival, called the Tarnetar Fair, named after the village in which it’s held, lives up to its poetic billing. This three day gala starts off on the 4th day of Shukla Paksha of Bhadrapad month of Hindu calendar and concludes on 6th day. Spread in a radius of two kms from Trinetreshwar Temple, this folk fair has surprises in every nook and corner. Eateries serving local delicacies, magicians, the well of death, toy shops, joy rides, imitation jewellery...you name it! After walking through a good kilometre and a half of the festival, I came across a small crowd, almost transfixed. As I went nearer, I saw a man showing mesmerising tricks of Lathidav (a martial art) with his two kids. Later, I met that man, he told me, “my name is Kayanibhai. I live at Halvad city of Surendranagar district. I learned Lathidav from my father and want to pass it on to the coming generations.” But recently he’s started to feel frustrated with the lack of interest in hallowed traditions. Explains Kayanibhai, “Earlier my wife also used to come to this fair. But nowadays it’s too commercialized. We used to play Hudo (traditional art of Ras) at the fair, but today there are shops everywhere and we do not have a place where we can play Hudo.”

Tarnetar Fair has a special place in our history. It is believed that Trinetreshwar Temple is the place where Lord Shiva opened his third eye to burn Kamdeva. Another firmly held belief is that in Dwapar Yug Arjuna won the swayamvar of Draupadi at this very place. Sarpanch of Tarnetar village, Devabhai Khamani tells TSI, “There are Havan Kunds, one each, of Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva in the compound of Trinetreshwar Temple. It’s our belief that on the day of Rishi Panchami, i.e. 5th day of Shukla Paksh of Bhadrapad month of Hindu Calendar, water of Ganga river flows through these Kunds. Traditionally, this fair was meant to unite the people of Panchal Bhoomi, but times have changed. Now people do not care about the religious aspect of the Fair, they come here just to pass time,” he adds ruefully.

As I went ahead I met Vastabhai Ahir, I tried to talk with him, he was not happy. Disappointed with seeing young boys and girls in jeans and T- shirts, in a nostalgic mood, he says, “During our time nobody dared to wear such dresses. We used to play Hudo raas in our traditional wear, like Kediu (open cotton shirt with laces and embroidery work), Kandoro (waist band of artistic gold or silver pieces) and Chhatri. We used to keep the Chhatri in our hands at all times because those who had beautiful Chhatris would attract the most girls. But now there is hardly anything left. There are Paubhajiwalas and Gollawallas everywhere!” Interestingly, for the first time state government has included an Animal Expo in Tarnetar Fair. But inexplicably forgot to include the famous Geer-Kankrej and the equally famous Kathiawadi bull – Ghankhut.

The state government has also been arranging Rural Olympics every year during the Fair. But, the players are not happy. Bhavesh Patel, volley ball team member from Nadiad town expresses his grievances before TSI, “I am very disappointed. I can’t perform in such a situation where there is no audience. I thought that there would be a huge crowd to cheer us. But there is nobody. Here everybody is too busy with the fair to watch us.”

Earlier foreign tourists would come Tarnetar Fair in appreciable numbers, but no longer. “Two-three years ago plenty of foreign tourists used to come here and enjoy. But nowadays due to presence of VVIPs these fairs have became victim of over security,” was the reason, according to one state tourism officer. Indeed, fully manned observation towers were ubiquitous throughout the fair. Suddenly there was commotion, a marked rise in activity. It turned out that the CM, Narendra Modi, had arrived. Suddenly flash lights fell on the main stage and TV crews gathered. Soon, umbrellas and peacocks started moving and swinging in the air, in tune with the loud music.

However, the spectacle lacked the trademark spontaneity and enthusiasm of the fair. Perhaps, people like Vastabhai are right.. May be the original colours and flair of Tarnetar Mela are slowly fading away.